English wine has long operated on a collaborative model, with producers sharing the belief that a rising tide lifts all ships as the industry gained domestic and international respect.
That spirit of cooperation is now being joined by something more competitive, as individual counties race to carve out distinct regional identities along the lines of French and Italian appellations.
Kent was among the first to formalise this ambition, forming the Wine Garden of England in 2018, a collective partnership bringing together nine of the county’s leading vineyards.
The collective includes Balfour, Biddenden, Chapel Down, Domaine Evremond, Gusbourne, Simpsons, Squerryes, Westwell and Yotes Court, arranging tours and events across their estates.
The Squerryes Brut 2022, priced at £41, offers a strong example of Kent’s output, described as lively and elegant with toasty biscuit notes in an award-winning signature blend.
Sussex moved further still in 2022, becoming the UK’s first wine-specific PDO, a Protected Designation of Origin comparable to designations like Champagne or Chianti in Europe.
To qualify under the Sussex PDO, sparkling wines must meet a more rigorous set of production rules and quality standards, marking a significant step in the premiumisation of English wine.
Sussex producers are also making inroads with red wine, historically a challenge in the UK’s cool climate, with the Oastbrook Pinot Noir Reserve 2022 at £38 drawing on a warm vintage to produce a silky, fresh red with red berry fruits and a long finish.
Surrey is now entering the regional identity conversation with the launch of Surrey Hills Wine Week, running from 30 May to 7 June across seven local vineyards.
Participating estates include Albury Organic Vineyard, Chilworth Manor Vineyard, Denbies Wine Estate, Greyfriars Vineyard, High Clandon Estate Vineyard, Soloms Court Wine Estate and Tanhurst Estate Vineyard.
Denbies Wine Estate is the most established of the group, marking 40 years of vines this year and offering accommodation, restaurants and year-round events near Dorking station.
The Denbies Cubitt Blanc de Noirs 2016, priced at £34.95 and released only in the best vintages, spent seven years ageing on the lees, producing a generous and aromatic wine with old-school elegance.
The youngest participant in the week is Soloms Court Wine Estate, a small eco-conscious vineyard run by wife-and-husband team Elise and Peter Nichols, who will release their first wine during the event.
Soloms Court made its debut wine in collaboration with Litmus Wines, a producer based at Denbies known for innovative and niche still wines.
The Litmus White Pinot, available at Ocado for £26, is an oak-aged white wine made entirely from red Pinot Noir grapes, delivering richness and structure uncommon in English white wines.
As more counties look to define their own wine identities, the English wine landscape appears set for a period of increasing regional differentiation and prestige.